Pattern Review: The Dadaisme Dress

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The first time I saw this dress posted on The Eli Monster Facebook group I gasped. It was so beautiful, so clean, and so different that I was practically begging to test it. I was definitely not disappointed. The Dadaisme Dress by the Eli Monster is a beautiful addition to any little girls wardrobe.

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Drafting and sewing a Lined Bodice

When I first started sewing I always bought a pattern. Always. But after about the  fifth pattern I realized that all patterns were made up of the same basic components and that by simply manipulating a few things the possibilities were endless.

The bodice is the foundation of any dress. Skirts, ruffles, and sleeves all depend on the bodice and the shape and fit of the dress are determined by how well the bodice fits.

If you are going to draft your own pattern I recommend starting with a pattern you already have that you know fits well. I used a pattern piece from a dress pattern I liked, although at this point I don’t remember which one. I keep the armholes the same and alter the neckline, the width of the shoulder, and the length of the body based on the style I’m sewing.

You can trace a piece of clothing you already own and go from there but my finished product never looks or fits quite as well.

This is a picture of my original bodice that I recently used to start drafting a pattern.

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It had a fairly scooped front neckline and a standard back. This was a pattern I used to make a dress with a zipper. How you intend your dress to fasten will make a difference in the pattern you draft.

One of the most important things when drafting a bodice pattern is to make sure the waist measurement is correct. Maggie’s waist is 19″ so the finished bodice needs to be 20″ to allow for ease. For a bodice that will fasten with a zipper the waist measurement of the bodice is 21″ which is the waist plus seam allowance. If your bodice will close with buttons add about an inch to the BACK of the bodice pattern to allow for overlap, unless you want to add a placket. For knits you do not need as much ease or seam allowance so keep that in mind when drafting the pattern.

When drafting the pattern decide on the neckline and how long you want the bodice to be. Maggie is small and short waisted so we usually use a shorter bodice. For drop waists or longer torsos add length to the bottom of the bodice.

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This is the front of the bodice pattern I was drafting. The blue line is my original pattern and the pink line is the alteration. I was shortening the armhole slightly and rounding out the neckline.

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This is the back of the same pattern. I brought up the neckline a bit but didn’t alter anything else. Because this was a pattern for a knit top there was no added width for buttons.

It is important that the measurement of the shoulder and the underarm are the same for both the front and back.

Also keep in mind that your armholes and necklines will be bigger when sewn because of seam allowances. If I’m having trouble visualizing I’ll draw the pattern the way I want it to look finished and then add the seam allowances.

Once your pattern is drafted cut out 2 of the front on the fold and 4 of the back not on the fold. You can use the same fabric for the main bodice and the lining or you can use a complimentary fabric for the lining.

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Back and Front

Match up the shoulder seams of the main fabric and sew both shoulders. Then repeat for the lining. Iron the seams open and pin your lining to the bodice right sides together.

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Sew around the green lines.

 

Sew around the armholes and then up the back seam and around the neck. Clip the seam allowances (I prefer to use my pinking shears around the whole thing) and iron to set your seams.

Turn right side out by pulling the front and one side of the back through the shoulder seam and then pulling the second side of the back right side out. Give it a good iron.

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Nice and Flat

 

The sides seams can be a bit tricky. Match up the right sides of the fabric at the side seam and pin at the seam.

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Lining to lining and main fabric to main fabric

Sew all the way across, trim, and press flat. Repeat this on the other side.

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Your bodice is done and ready for sleeves, ruffles and a skirt!

We’d love to see pictures of your bodices! Comment and let us know how you are making the basic bodice your own.

 

 

6 things I love right now!

There are lots of things that make my sewing easier or more enjoyable. Here’s 6 things I am loving right now!

1. Frixion Erasable Pens and Markers

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I love these markers so much! They show up just like a regular marker and erase with just a little bit of friction. Because they are erased using heat the lines disappear with just a wave of the iron. I use them to mark up pattern pieces, draw grids for pleating, mark a hem, and so much more. I’m more likely to mark a garment now than I was before because I know the mark will come totally off. I loved them so much I ordered a set of the pens for my gradebook!

Amazon, $15

2. A rolled hem

Rolled hems are like magic. They easily finish off ruffles without the weight of a regular hem and I sew a lot of ruffles. The first time I used a rolled hem I was in awe of how pretty it looked.

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Tips on making a rolled hem can be found in the Simply Tickled Tutorial

3. Sainte Claire

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I love love love this clothing line. It’s Spanish and if I could afford it I would buy every single piece. I love that all of the clothes on this website highlight the beauty of the child wearing it.

Sainte Claire, make sure you look at the baby line and the girls’ line.

4. Vintage Patterns

I just finished a dress for Maggie using the Simplicity pattern 6422 from 1966 and am working on the accompanying pinafore. I love the clean lines and the pattern assumes that anyone reading it would be well versed in sewing. As soon as I get it finished I’ll put it up on the site.

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Find tons of vintage patterns on Etsy

5. Wawak Sewing Supplies

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This is THE best website for thread, rulers, zippers, and notions. The prices are much lower than places like Joann’s, the shipping is fast, and the quality is amazing. We’ve already made two orders and will probably make another soon. If you use a serger this is definitely the place to buy serger thread.

Wawak Sewing Supplies

6.  The SMART Scrap Made Art Store

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This store is amazing. 20140819_182946They take donations of any kind of craft supply, organize, and sell them. The prices are amazing. Last time I was there I got a ton of trim, 17 yards of fabric, and a bucket of buttons all for less than $40. A lot of the stuff they have is vintage and you never know what you’re going to find. As an added bonus they work with a local non-profit  and provide employment opportunities for adults with intellectual disabilities.

Smart Scrap Made Art Supplies

 

We love to hear from you. Tell us what you love right now.

– Carrie