Drafting and sewing a Lined Bodice

When I first started sewing I always bought a pattern. Always. But after about the  fifth pattern I realized that all patterns were made up of the same basic components and that by simply manipulating a few things the possibilities were endless.

The bodice is the foundation of any dress. Skirts, ruffles, and sleeves all depend on the bodice and the shape and fit of the dress are determined by how well the bodice fits.

If you are going to draft your own pattern I recommend starting with a pattern you already have that you know fits well. I used a pattern piece from a dress pattern I liked, although at this point I don’t remember which one. I keep the armholes the same and alter the neckline, the width of the shoulder, and the length of the body based on the style I’m sewing.

You can trace a piece of clothing you already own and go from there but my finished product never looks or fits quite as well.

This is a picture of my original bodice that I recently used to start drafting a pattern.

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It had a fairly scooped front neckline and a standard back. This was a pattern I used to make a dress with a zipper. How you intend your dress to fasten will make a difference in the pattern you draft.

One of the most important things when drafting a bodice pattern is to make sure the waist measurement is correct. Maggie’s waist is 19″ so the finished bodice needs to be 20″ to allow for ease. For a bodice that will fasten with a zipper the waist measurement of the bodice is 21″ which is the waist plus seam allowance. If your bodice will close with buttons add about an inch to the BACK of the bodice pattern to allow for overlap, unless you want to add a placket. For knits you do not need as much ease or seam allowance so keep that in mind when drafting the pattern.

When drafting the pattern decide on the neckline and how long you want the bodice to be. Maggie is small and short waisted so we usually use a shorter bodice. For drop waists or longer torsos add length to the bottom of the bodice.

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This is the front of the bodice pattern I was drafting. The blue line is my original pattern and the pink line is the alteration. I was shortening the armhole slightly and rounding out the neckline.

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This is the back of the same pattern. I brought up the neckline a bit but didn’t alter anything else. Because this was a pattern for a knit top there was no added width for buttons.

It is important that the measurement of the shoulder and the underarm are the same for both the front and back.

Also keep in mind that your armholes and necklines will be bigger when sewn because of seam allowances. If I’m having trouble visualizing I’ll draw the pattern the way I want it to look finished and then add the seam allowances.

Once your pattern is drafted cut out 2 of the front on the fold and 4 of the back not on the fold. You can use the same fabric for the main bodice and the lining or you can use a complimentary fabric for the lining.

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Back and Front

Match up the shoulder seams of the main fabric and sew both shoulders. Then repeat for the lining. Iron the seams open and pin your lining to the bodice right sides together.

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Sew around the green lines.

 

Sew around the armholes and then up the back seam and around the neck. Clip the seam allowances (I prefer to use my pinking shears around the whole thing) and iron to set your seams.

Turn right side out by pulling the front and one side of the back through the shoulder seam and then pulling the second side of the back right side out. Give it a good iron.

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Nice and Flat

 

The sides seams can be a bit tricky. Match up the right sides of the fabric at the side seam and pin at the seam.

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Lining to lining and main fabric to main fabric

Sew all the way across, trim, and press flat. Repeat this on the other side.

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Your bodice is done and ready for sleeves, ruffles and a skirt!

We’d love to see pictures of your bodices! Comment and let us know how you are making the basic bodice your own.

 

 

No Pleater? No Problem!

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Hand pleating for smocking without iron on dots or a pleater.

If you live in the south like we do you know how important smocked garments are to a little girls’ wardrobe. For those of you not blessed to live in Dixie smocked dresses and John-Johns are a church staple. Bishop dresses with smocked lobsters, watermelon, and bunnies are practically a uniform. I love bishop dresses. I love the feminine drape, the versatility, and the sheer girlishness of them. Unfortunately these lovely dresses come with not so lovely prices.

When I first got it in my head to make a bishop dress my research stopped me short. Apparently I was going to need a $300 pleater and a paper pattern, neither of which were in my budget. Eventually I found a tutorial for pleating by hand without a pleater but when I went back to actually try it the blog it was on had vanished from the internet. I remembered the basic idea and set out to do it on my own.

Pleating and smocking can be used as part or a bodice or part of a bishop. I’ll be posting a full tutorial to make a bishop dress in the future but for now I wanted the hand pleating tutorial to be out there for the world.

Materials:

1 yd of fabric (for a 12-18 month dress) you may need more based on your measurements. More on this in a minute.

Clear quilting ruler and cutting mat. The mat isn’t 100% necessary but does make it much easier.

Frixion Eraseable Markers or Tailors Marker

Embroidery or Quilting Needle

Thread in a contrasting color to your fabric

Step 1: Pleat a Swatch

The next step is to pleat a swatch. This is VERY important. Do not skip this step!

Start with a 7″ x 3-4″ square. Tearing the fabric is preferable but if you must cut be my guest.

A pleat is simply a small fold in the fabric. Your goal is to create lots and lots of very small, very even pleats. You do this by sewing an even basting stitch all the way across the fabric. When working with gingham I go over the white square and under the colored square. I don’t know what made me do this originally but it worked so I went with it.

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Taping the swatch down ensures it won’t shift

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You can draw dots or a grid, both work.

If you are working with a different fabric you’ll need to draw a grid on the wrong side of the fabric before you can pleat. This is where the clear quilting ruler and mat come in handy. The easiest way I’ve found to draw the grid is to take your fabric and tape it to the mat so that it is lined up with the ruler. You want to line your ruler up with the lines on the mat, NOT the lines you’ve drawn. This will ensure your lines stay straight. Draw the grid approximately 1/2″ from away from each side. You’ll need 4-5 horizontal lines and as many vertical lines as it takes to go across. When you are finished it should look like this.

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Line the ruler up with the mat not with previous lines.

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Finished Lines (with bonus armholes drawn on)

Once the grid is drawn you are going to go up through the first corner and across the fabric horizontally picking up every half square. You can pick up every other square but it will result in a fatter pleat. You can also draw a grid made up of 1/8″ squares but it will take forever and honestly I don’t have it in me. Make sure you leave a long tail on both ends of the fabric. I made the video below showing exactly how to do the stitching. If you’ve ever hand quilted it’s very similar to that.

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When you’ve finished sewing across all the horizontal lines the real fun begins. On one end you’ll need to tie your gathering threads together. I always do this on the end I started at but I don’t know that it actually matters for the swatch. Grasp the threads from the other end and gently pull all of them evenly. The fabric should gather like magic! I will admit that generally while pleating I pull the gathering threads in just so I can see it.

Once your fabric is gathered to an even tight pleat you’ll need to measure it. Remember that it started out at 6 inches. My pleating generally ends up right around 1 inch. This makes my pleating ratio 6:1 (Isn’t math fun?). Make sure you find your own ratio but don’t worry about it being exact. Round it to the nearest 1/4 inch.

Repeat this process on the fabric being used for your dress and then smock.

If you’ve never smocked before I suggest checking out some books from your local library or watching the Martha Pullen videos on Youtube. You can follow a smocking plate but I find it much more fun to design my own patterns.

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Finished Product!